Thursday, November 18, 2010

Chocolate Overload

I must have consumed a pound of chocolate bars at last week's Chocolate Show. But there are so many ways to enjoy chocolate other than in candy form, and here are a few of my new (and newish) favorites in the city.
  • 72% Bittersweet Chocolate Macarons. One-year-old Bisous Ciao offers a wonderful, multi-colored array of macarons in flavors like salted caramel (the most popular), jasmine/green tea, and espresso, but it's the dark chocolate macaron that I can't stop thinking about. (Bisous Ciao: 101 Stanton St., 212-260-3463.)
  • Chocolate-Raspberry Cupcakes. Burrata, which has been serving pizza margherita to Upper West Siders for just one week, also has a selection of dainty cupcakes in traditional flavors like chocolate-iced vanilla and chocolate-raspberry. There are no elaborate Cupcake Cafe-style floral decorations here -just the cupcake and nothing but the cupcake. (That's how I like it.) (Burrata: 341 Amsterdam Ave., 212-362-0264.)
  • Single-Origin Hot Chocolate. You can take a world tour from Madagascar to Ecuador with the six varieties of hot chocolate at L.A. Burdick. Of course, the mini-chain is mostly known for its pretty little truffles, some of which feature a savory touch of cumin or pepper. (L.A. Burdick: 5 East 20th St., 212-796-0143.)
Digg this

Friday, November 12, 2010

The 13th Annual Chocolate Show

The buzzword at the 13th Annual Chocolate Show seems to be "raw," and I'm not sure how I feel about that - to me, raw chocolates tend to taste rather like paint. (And if I want to eat something healthy, I'll visit a juice bar.) Still, there's a lot to enjoy at this year's somewhat scaled-back show. (Remember when the event was so huge that it took over the adjacent building?)

But first, if you happen to be a fan of the raw chocolate movement, you'll want to visit: Gnosis ("The World's Most Nutritious Chocolate"), which is offering samples of pomegranate-acai and fleur de sel raw, vegan, dairyless chocolate; Nibmor, which serves a maple and palm sugar dairyless cocoa mix in four flavors, the Ecuadorian raw organic 84% chocolate of Antidote, and the fair-trade selection of Divine Organics.

For me, I'll stick to the apricot ganache samples offered by Valrhona, the chocolate-covered peanut butter and jelly macarons ($3) of Francois Payard, three varieties of chocolate fondue at Les Fondues Au Chocolat (they provide complimentary grapes for dipping, whereas Lily O'Brien's pay-per-dip chocolate fountain gives you marshmallows, graham crackers and pretzels but no fruit), and the 80% cacao bonbon samples offered by Jacques Torres.

Those with a salt tooth will want to try Neuchatel's chocolate-covered potato chips, chocolate-covered bacon strips from Co Co. Sala, and chocolate popcorn by 2 Chicks with Chocolate at The Wine Collection. Peanut butter lovers have both the longtime vendor Peanut Butter & Company and Jer's Gourmet Chocolates.

And what's chocolate without its complementary flavor, vanilla? There's a Bourbon Vanilla from Madagascar stand which is selling vanilla beans and powders.

If you need someone to explain all the attributes of single-origin chocolates, it's best to go see author Alexandra Leaf over at Pralus Chocolatier. She will point out the notes of coffee and fudge in a Brazilian sample and you'll taste chocolate in an enlightened new way. Bonnat Chocolatier also features a good selection of South American single-origin bars.

Many of this year's exhibitors are based in France (Comptoir de Cacao has some wonderful praline samples) , but there's a small Italian corner featuring Guido Gobino and T'a Sentimento Cioccolato, which was headed up by a relative of Italy's most famous panettone manufacturer. At Gobino you can sample the giandujotti, which are $28 at Eataly for a lamentably small package.

Kids can get in on the action with Tina Cocolina books and a Kids Zone where they can use stencils to make sweet-tasting drawings,design chef's hats and dip spoons in chocolate. The three most ornate chocolatiers are Tampa-based William Dean, with tropical-colored confections, customizable chocolate decorations from Poesies Chocolatees (check out the snowflakes and Christmas ornaments. and vintage-influenced Rogue, which uses a special heat infusion process to imprint multi-colored designs onto their chocolates.

Cafe Bustelo
is serving free cappuccino, espresso and mocha on the south side of the room. No need to pay for your coffee at the cafe on the opposite side - you're already out $28 just for the tickets to the show! Still, it's hard to leave without purchasing something - I left with a jar of chocolate milk jam from Normandy, a tube of creme de noisette from Pralus (it makes Nutella irrelevant), and two saucer-sized macarons from Payard. It was nice to be presented with a free cup of Callebaut's callets upon exiting - they went pretty quickly.

The Chocolate Show: The Metropolitan Pavilion, 125 West 18th St.
Digg this

Sunday, November 07, 2010

Donguri

I still feel the loss of both Toraya, the Japanese tea and sweets room, and Ito-En's flagship store on Madison Avenue that included the kaiseki-focused Kai. Fortunately, New Yorkers still have Ito-En's Donguri, a cozy little slip of a place on an out-of-the-way Upper East Side block. I was craving some miso soup and hot sake last night, so I met a couple friends over there.

As the night went on, the ambience went from reverent to lively; at the end of the meal we almost had to shout. (This could have been due to the consumption of sake.) However, we were able to focus on the food, and some of it was truly memorable.

Our onslaught of appetizers included zaru soba, spicy octopus, corn tempura, miso soup, and sesame tofu (they were out of soy tofu, and later, grilled mackerel). The perfectly al dente soba was of the Inaniwa variety and was served with the typical toasted seaweed squares, scallions, wasabi and soy dipping sauce. The scallion-heavy miso soup was fine, but I'd been craving Tokyo-style red miso soup instead of soup made with white miso. The standout for me was the sweet corn tempura appetizer... sweet-salty disks of lightly battered crunchy corn were as addictive as popcorn.

For mains, two of us went with the chef's special sashimi, a well-balanced plate of thick chunks of tuna, a marbled rectangle of rich tuna belly, thinly-sliced snapper and fluke, salmon, orange clam, and yellowtail. I was glad I hadn't ordered the grilled Scottish salmon with salmon roe, as I wouldn't have had room. My other friend ordered the squid-ink risotto, also topped with salmon roe; I felt that this was rather one-note, not something I could eat an entire meal of.

For dessert, there was hojicha and then green tea pudding with vanilla bean ice cream. I wish we could have stayed longer (I drained three cups of sake, which is more alcohol than I've consumed since delivering my son), but the next party was itching to sit down. I don't blame them, as I am already planning my next visit.

Donguri: 309 East 83rd St., (212) 737-5656.
Digg this